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F 6.3 or F 3.3?
- ayiomamitis
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18 years 11 months ago #19252
by ayiomamitis
Anthony Ayiomamitis
Athens, Greece
www.perseus.gr
Replied by ayiomamitis on topic Re: F 6.3 or F 3.3?
Brian,
I should also add that the f/3.3 will produce vignetting and it will be an issue if your imaging chip is sufficiently large. Such a reducer is only suitable for small imaging chips since they do not cover enough of the available field to include the vignetting.
Using the SBIG CCD cameras as an example, you would be fine with the ST-7 line but not with any of the rest (ST-8, -9, -10, -2000 etc). Ditto with the recent lines of digital cameras and their large chips.
Anthony.
I should also add that the f/3.3 will produce vignetting and it will be an issue if your imaging chip is sufficiently large. Such a reducer is only suitable for small imaging chips since they do not cover enough of the available field to include the vignetting.
Using the SBIG CCD cameras as an example, you would be fine with the ST-7 line but not with any of the rest (ST-8, -9, -10, -2000 etc). Ditto with the recent lines of digital cameras and their large chips.
Anthony.
Anthony Ayiomamitis
Athens, Greece
www.perseus.gr
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- jeyjey
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18 years 11 months ago #19274
by jeyjey
Brian --
Newts are usually reasonably fast to start with, so there aren't a lot of focal reducers made for them. They also tend to have the shortest focusing ranges (in order to keep the secondary mirrors as small as possible), which exacerbates the problem.
I'm not convinced the Atik won't work with the DSI, though. When you put your DSI in normally, where is the correct focus? Is your focuser draw tube well extended, or is it in almost all the way?
It would be a pain, but you can also get more in-focus in a Newt by extending the collimation screws out farther. Of course, then you have to re-collimate every time you add or remove the focal reducer, which can get tiring.
-- Jeff.
Nikon 18x70s / UA Millennium Colorado:
Solarscope SF70 / TV Pronto / AP400QMD Coronado SolarMax40 DS / Bogen 055+3130
APM MC1610 / Tak FC-125 / AP1200GTO Tak Mewlon 250 / AP600EGTO
Replied by jeyjey on topic Re: F 6.3 or F 3.3?
Jeff I looked up Ian King Imaging www.iankingimaging.com/show_products.php?category=17 and I found what you were on about (second product down).It said that newtonians would not be able to achieve focus with it, any suggestions :
Brian --
Newts are usually reasonably fast to start with, so there aren't a lot of focal reducers made for them. They also tend to have the shortest focusing ranges (in order to keep the secondary mirrors as small as possible), which exacerbates the problem.
I'm not convinced the Atik won't work with the DSI, though. When you put your DSI in normally, where is the correct focus? Is your focuser draw tube well extended, or is it in almost all the way?
It would be a pain, but you can also get more in-focus in a Newt by extending the collimation screws out farther. Of course, then you have to re-collimate every time you add or remove the focal reducer, which can get tiring.
-- Jeff.
Nikon 18x70s / UA Millennium Colorado:
Solarscope SF70 / TV Pronto / AP400QMD Coronado SolarMax40 DS / Bogen 055+3130
APM MC1610 / Tak FC-125 / AP1200GTO Tak Mewlon 250 / AP600EGTO
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