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10" Dob prob with Bino and Camera....
- Graham
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15 years 3 months ago #80966
by Graham
10" Dob prob with Bino and Camera.... was created by Graham
Hi All,
Am having a bit of a problem....
I have a 10" StarHopper and I had it out just a few mins ago,
It was the first time I have tried to use my camera (Rebel XT) and binoviewer (seperatly) with this scope, they were usually used with a C100-ED with no problems at all!
The problem is that they wont focus at all... I get a star blur and it starts to get sharper when focused towards the scope but when the focuser is all the way in it still isnt focused.. It looks like it needs another inch or so to get focused, I have everything attached as far in as possible.
All other eyepieces with and without a barlow focuses no problem at all...
Any ideas??
Graham
Am having a bit of a problem....
I have a 10" StarHopper and I had it out just a few mins ago,
It was the first time I have tried to use my camera (Rebel XT) and binoviewer (seperatly) with this scope, they were usually used with a C100-ED with no problems at all!
The problem is that they wont focus at all... I get a star blur and it starts to get sharper when focused towards the scope but when the focuser is all the way in it still isnt focused.. It looks like it needs another inch or so to get focused, I have everything attached as far in as possible.
All other eyepieces with and without a barlow focuses no problem at all...
Any ideas??
Graham
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- Calibos
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15 years 3 months ago #80973
by Calibos
Keith D.
16" Meade Lightbridge Truss Dobsonian with Servocat Tracking/GOTO
Ethos 3.7sx,6,8,10,13,17,21mm
Nagler 31mm
Replied by Calibos on topic Re:10" Dob prob with Bino and Camera....
I'd be suprised if the lack of infocus was as much as 1 inch. You said your star blur was starting to come to focus. I'd say you might only be looking at needing another cm at most. Assuming thats the case.....First thing to try is to decollimate the primary to move it further up the OTA. ie. loosen up the collimation bolts several turns to push the primary further up the tube. Re-collimate and try to bring the camera and BV to focus. If its still not quite there loosen the collimation bolts a bit further. However, this time you are going to have to be careful that you don't unscrew them too far where they disengage/unscrew from the mirror cell entirely. So now just do 1 turn each, recollimate and check focus etc.
If you now find you can reach focus, tighten up the locking bolts till they just barely touch the cell. In future when you collimate, decide which collimation bolt is easiest to remember to never touch again. I decided on the bolt on the focuser side of the OTA. In future only collimate with the other two. By leaving one untouched, this will mean the primary doesn't start migrating up or down the tube over the course of several collimation sessions.
The downside to this is that if your lack of infocus necessitated moving the primary so far up the OTA that the collimation springs are barely compressed your scope might not hold collimation very well and collimation might drift when you move the scope in altitude. Another slight downside is that if your secondary mirror is not slightly oversized, by moving the primary up the OTA, the secondary might not be able to catch the full light cone which isn't a disaster but it means your are losing some light and losing some contrast because of a larger relative central obstrusction.
If you only had to lossen the collimation bolts a couple of turns though, you should be OK with regards to all those issues. Most Chinese Newts have oversized secondaries anyway.
Another option is fitting a lower profile focuser. If you felt you wanted to upgrade the focuser anyway, then the cost of this option doesn't really matter, however if you don't want to spend that kind of money then there might be other options. Is the focuser a 2" or a 1.25"? If its a 2" is there a way to use your camera and BV in the focuser in 2" mode without the focusers 2-1.25" adapter? This could give you the infocus you need.
Another option if your camera and BV will only fit in the 2" focusers 2-1.25" adapter is to buy a special kind of recessed 2-1.25" adapter. www.scopestuff.com/ss_npea.htm
This could give you the infocus you need.
The option of last resort is to shorten your OTA by cutting a slice off the rear of your OTA and refit the mirror cell.
If you now find you can reach focus, tighten up the locking bolts till they just barely touch the cell. In future when you collimate, decide which collimation bolt is easiest to remember to never touch again. I decided on the bolt on the focuser side of the OTA. In future only collimate with the other two. By leaving one untouched, this will mean the primary doesn't start migrating up or down the tube over the course of several collimation sessions.
The downside to this is that if your lack of infocus necessitated moving the primary so far up the OTA that the collimation springs are barely compressed your scope might not hold collimation very well and collimation might drift when you move the scope in altitude. Another slight downside is that if your secondary mirror is not slightly oversized, by moving the primary up the OTA, the secondary might not be able to catch the full light cone which isn't a disaster but it means your are losing some light and losing some contrast because of a larger relative central obstrusction.
If you only had to lossen the collimation bolts a couple of turns though, you should be OK with regards to all those issues. Most Chinese Newts have oversized secondaries anyway.
Another option is fitting a lower profile focuser. If you felt you wanted to upgrade the focuser anyway, then the cost of this option doesn't really matter, however if you don't want to spend that kind of money then there might be other options. Is the focuser a 2" or a 1.25"? If its a 2" is there a way to use your camera and BV in the focuser in 2" mode without the focusers 2-1.25" adapter? This could give you the infocus you need.
Another option if your camera and BV will only fit in the 2" focusers 2-1.25" adapter is to buy a special kind of recessed 2-1.25" adapter. www.scopestuff.com/ss_npea.htm
This could give you the infocus you need.
The option of last resort is to shorten your OTA by cutting a slice off the rear of your OTA and refit the mirror cell.
Keith D.
16" Meade Lightbridge Truss Dobsonian with Servocat Tracking/GOTO
Ethos 3.7sx,6,8,10,13,17,21mm
Nagler 31mm
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- Graham
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15 years 3 months ago #80974
by Graham
Replied by Graham on topic Re:10" Dob prob with Bino and Camera....
Thanks for that!
The collimation sounds like it could be the problem, I never taught of leaving one alone and only adjusting the other two! that could be the problem, I have always chased the 3!
Is it the same to reset the secondary? just loosen the outer 3 screws and only collimate with 2?
Graham
The collimation sounds like it could be the problem, I never taught of leaving one alone and only adjusting the other two! that could be the problem, I have always chased the 3!
Is it the same to reset the secondary? just loosen the outer 3 screws and only collimate with 2?
Graham
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- JohnMurphy
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- Super Giant
15 years 3 months ago #80976
by JohnMurphy
Clear Skies,
John Murphy
Irish Astronomical Society
Check out My Photos
Replied by JohnMurphy on topic Re:10" Dob prob with Bino and Camera....
The safest and easiest thing to do here is to replace your existing focuser with a low profile focuser. Trust me I had the same issue as you are having. You can purchase a good quality GSO low profile focuser with 1:10 speed cheaply on e-bay (€40 or so). You may also then need an extension tube to get existing eypieces to come to focus, but again this is cheap.
Clear Skies,
John Murphy
Irish Astronomical Society
Check out My Photos
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