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Panels for taking flats
- michaeloconnell
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15 years 2 months ago - 15 years 2 months ago #81615
by michaeloconnell
Panels for taking flats was created by michaeloconnell
Last edit: 15 years 2 months ago by michaeloconnell.
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- DaveGrennan
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15 years 2 months ago #81618
by DaveGrennan
Regards and Clear Skies,
Dave.
J41 - Raheny Observatory.
www.webtreatz.com
Equipment List here
Replied by DaveGrennan on topic Re:Panels for taking flats
Interesting stuff. I actually came across these only the other day. Apparently you caqn even cut these to size!!
I actually just made a flat frame light box for the 10" the other day. Pretty simple with some leds a resistor some foam core board , drafting vellum (tracing paper) and lots of glue and double sided sticky tape. Just tried it out and it seems to work great.
I actually just made a flat frame light box for the 10" the other day. Pretty simple with some leds a resistor some foam core board , drafting vellum (tracing paper) and lots of glue and double sided sticky tape. Just tried it out and it seems to work great.
Regards and Clear Skies,
Dave.
J41 - Raheny Observatory.
www.webtreatz.com
Equipment List here
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- johnomahony
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- Super Giant
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15 years 2 months ago #81625
by johnomahony
The Lord giveth, the Revenue taketh away. (John 1:16)
www.flickr.com/photos/7703127@N07/
Replied by johnomahony on topic Re:Panels for taking flats
I wonder if these are electroluminescent foils? If they are, the only concern is that they are very moisture sensitive and you may see the intensity of the light start to vary across the strip, especially at the edges, over time.
Another possibility is to use a strip of diffuser film such as those used in LCD and flat screen dislay backlightng applications. They are designed to spread light uniformly over the whole surface, regardless of where the light source is located. I have been intending to give this a go as the foils can be cut to size and laminated or stuck down with optical transfer adhesive tape.
Another possibility is to use a strip of diffuser film such as those used in LCD and flat screen dislay backlightng applications. They are designed to spread light uniformly over the whole surface, regardless of where the light source is located. I have been intending to give this a go as the foils can be cut to size and laminated or stuck down with optical transfer adhesive tape.
The Lord giveth, the Revenue taketh away. (John 1:16)
www.flickr.com/photos/7703127@N07/
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- eansbro
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15 years 2 months ago #81626
by eansbro
Replied by eansbro on topic Re:Panels for taking flats
I made a light box sometime ago for the large telescope here, here is a description
Light Box
The light box needs to be light in weight and ease of use, uniformity of illumination and ultimately acceptable flat field correction.
The light box is constructed of 1/4" foam core. Each sidepiece is exactly 41.25” x 41.25" (4 pieces). The top is 40.75" x 40.75". The assembly is held together by a combination of glue and thin aluminium. The completed box is attached to the white plastic plate by glue. There are two diffusers each square is 40.00” x 40.00” positioned 2” apart within the square box. Each diffuser is bonded to a circular opening 38.5” each with the separation of 2”. The whole structure is tenaciously bonded with glue. All the edges are sealed with thin aluminium.
The whole structure is solid and incredibly light for man handling.
The illumination source and box proportions are key to a successful design with uniform illumination.
The ideal geometrical arrangement is when the most uniform illumination occurs when the distance from the inside top of the box to the LED's is equal to the separation of the LED's. The concept is that the top of the box acts as a first diffuser and by locating the illumination sources near the corners of the box, the resultant light combines to a uniform level at the plastic diffuser. The diffused light from the first diffuser projects to the next diffuser. The next diffuser smoothes out any remaining gradients. Flat field should be better than 0.5% with this design.
The design uses 8 LEDs. They are ultrabright white LED 5mm, 11000mcd. Nichia in Japan manufactures the bright white LEDs. They combine a high quality phosphor with their recently commercialized indium-gallium-nitride (InGaN) blue LED. They found that when blue light from the InGaN die passes through a thin phosphor coating, a portion of the blue light is down-converted to yellow light. This yellow light mixes with the remaining blue light to create a bright white light.
The emission spectrum of this bright white LED shows the blue emission from the InGaN die at ~460nm and the yellow (shifted light from the phosphor) peaking near 560nm. There is little blue intensity below 450nm, where as astronomical blue filters on CCD cameras extend down to about 370nm. The yellow shifted light extends to about 750nm, which covers most red astronomical filters.
Eight micro drives modules were built to power the Nichia LEDs. The driver was designed to provide maximum illumination to the LED while mimicking the light drop off of an incandescent bulb, which dims as the batteries are used up. Unlike an incandescent bulb, the driver’s current consumption drops at very low voltages, allowing usable light to be produced much longer. The optional universal power supply 3-12 Volt/800mA provides better sustainability.
A second key item were the LED holders. These holders support the LED and act as a baffle to prevent the light from directly illuminating the diffuser.
The LED's and holders are mounted near the centre of a 1" x 1" square of foam core, glued to the inside corners of the box with adhesive and located approximately above the plastic diffuser. They are located around 10.00” above the plastic. Spacing is not critical except to maintain the dimensional ratio mentioned above. Leads are through the side of the foam core and the wiring is outside of the box.
Eamonn A
www.kingslandobservatory.com
Light Box
The light box needs to be light in weight and ease of use, uniformity of illumination and ultimately acceptable flat field correction.
The light box is constructed of 1/4" foam core. Each sidepiece is exactly 41.25” x 41.25" (4 pieces). The top is 40.75" x 40.75". The assembly is held together by a combination of glue and thin aluminium. The completed box is attached to the white plastic plate by glue. There are two diffusers each square is 40.00” x 40.00” positioned 2” apart within the square box. Each diffuser is bonded to a circular opening 38.5” each with the separation of 2”. The whole structure is tenaciously bonded with glue. All the edges are sealed with thin aluminium.
The whole structure is solid and incredibly light for man handling.
The illumination source and box proportions are key to a successful design with uniform illumination.
The ideal geometrical arrangement is when the most uniform illumination occurs when the distance from the inside top of the box to the LED's is equal to the separation of the LED's. The concept is that the top of the box acts as a first diffuser and by locating the illumination sources near the corners of the box, the resultant light combines to a uniform level at the plastic diffuser. The diffused light from the first diffuser projects to the next diffuser. The next diffuser smoothes out any remaining gradients. Flat field should be better than 0.5% with this design.
The design uses 8 LEDs. They are ultrabright white LED 5mm, 11000mcd. Nichia in Japan manufactures the bright white LEDs. They combine a high quality phosphor with their recently commercialized indium-gallium-nitride (InGaN) blue LED. They found that when blue light from the InGaN die passes through a thin phosphor coating, a portion of the blue light is down-converted to yellow light. This yellow light mixes with the remaining blue light to create a bright white light.
The emission spectrum of this bright white LED shows the blue emission from the InGaN die at ~460nm and the yellow (shifted light from the phosphor) peaking near 560nm. There is little blue intensity below 450nm, where as astronomical blue filters on CCD cameras extend down to about 370nm. The yellow shifted light extends to about 750nm, which covers most red astronomical filters.
Eight micro drives modules were built to power the Nichia LEDs. The driver was designed to provide maximum illumination to the LED while mimicking the light drop off of an incandescent bulb, which dims as the batteries are used up. Unlike an incandescent bulb, the driver’s current consumption drops at very low voltages, allowing usable light to be produced much longer. The optional universal power supply 3-12 Volt/800mA provides better sustainability.
A second key item were the LED holders. These holders support the LED and act as a baffle to prevent the light from directly illuminating the diffuser.
The LED's and holders are mounted near the centre of a 1" x 1" square of foam core, glued to the inside corners of the box with adhesive and located approximately above the plastic diffuser. They are located around 10.00” above the plastic. Spacing is not critical except to maintain the dimensional ratio mentioned above. Leads are through the side of the foam core and the wiring is outside of the box.
Eamonn A
www.kingslandobservatory.com
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- DaveGrennan
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- IFAS Astronomer of the Year 2010
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15 years 2 months ago #81629
by DaveGrennan
Regards and Clear Skies,
Dave.
J41 - Raheny Observatory.
www.webtreatz.com
Equipment List here
Replied by DaveGrennan on topic Re:Panels for taking flats
Interesting Eamonn because I built mine in a very similar fashion to you. I left the diffusers free moving until I found the best positions which gave a totally even field illumination. I placed the 6 superbright LEDs (available from radionics) equi-distant and mounted them so I could tilt the angle so that each ones lightcome overlapped equally. I added a potentiometer (variable resistor) to the array in series with two 120ohm fixed resistors. The pot was 0-100k logarithmic (just happened to have one) This arrangement works great with the standard 13.8v found in most setups and allows the LED's to be varied from full on to almost off. The ability to vary the intensity is excellent as you can tailor the brightness to suit a chosen exposure time for the flat rather than the other way around. Now I must build one for the 14" and the smaller refractors too.
I tested the evenness of the field illumination by taking a photo with a DSLR and stretching the result to spot irregularities.
All in all a very handy evenings work.
I tested the evenness of the field illumination by taking a photo with a DSLR and stretching the result to spot irregularities.
All in all a very handy evenings work.
Regards and Clear Skies,
Dave.
J41 - Raheny Observatory.
www.webtreatz.com
Equipment List here
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- ayiomamitis
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15 years 2 months ago #81632
by ayiomamitis
Anthony Ayiomamitis
Athens, Greece
www.perseus.gr
Replied by ayiomamitis on topic Re:Panels for taking flats
I also used a similar approach to Eamonn using also Nichia LED's. Don Goldman has an excellent webpage describing the construction of a light-box and he also highly recommends the Nichia LED's and was the primary reason I pursued them.
However, I went to hell and back in trying to get my hands on the Nichia LED's. I tried buying them off eBay but the US sellers were adamant about selling them only stateside. I sent various emails to the various European distributors and was finally contacted by the Nichia VP responsible for European sales.
He mentioned to me that they only sell to dealers and resellers and do so in very large quantities. However, he also mentioned that he could send me some "samples" and which was my saving grace. I think he sent me 10 such samples - four went into the light-box I constructed for myself and another four went to a friend. The remaining two are for back-up purposes in the event I have one or two burn out.
I must confess I am very happy with the performance. My only gripe is my inability to power the light-box with a 12v DC power source.
Anthony.
However, I went to hell and back in trying to get my hands on the Nichia LED's. I tried buying them off eBay but the US sellers were adamant about selling them only stateside. I sent various emails to the various European distributors and was finally contacted by the Nichia VP responsible for European sales.
He mentioned to me that they only sell to dealers and resellers and do so in very large quantities. However, he also mentioned that he could send me some "samples" and which was my saving grace. I think he sent me 10 such samples - four went into the light-box I constructed for myself and another four went to a friend. The remaining two are for back-up purposes in the event I have one or two burn out.
I must confess I am very happy with the performance. My only gripe is my inability to power the light-box with a 12v DC power source.
Anthony.
Anthony Ayiomamitis
Athens, Greece
www.perseus.gr
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