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New Jupiter Time-lapse, GRS and Io transit captured.

  • jmckeon
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10 years 10 months ago #99873 by jmckeon
Yeah thats cool. I'll drop up then.

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  • carlobeirnes
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10 years 10 months ago #99876 by carlobeirnes
Replied by carlobeirnes on topic New Jupiter Time-lapse, GRS and Io transit captured.
Hi Lads,

Sorry I did not get to spend as much time with you as I would have liked today. You seen how mad busy the shop was, I really enjoyed the time we did get. I’m hoping we get more time to go through things in deeper detail next time.

Clear Skies,
Carl.

Carl O’Beirnes,
Scopes and Space Ltd,
Unit A8 Airside Enterprise Centre,
Swords, Co Dublin,
Ireland.
www.scopesandspace.ie/
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10 years 10 months ago #99878 by jmckeon
Cheers Carl, Got some good info off you anyway. I'm trying the derotation on my images after the wavelets in Registax like you suggested and its giving me better results then what I was doing. Cheers.
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10 years 10 months ago #99884 by martinus
Superb thread, guys!
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10 years 10 months ago - 10 years 10 months ago #99900 by carlobeirnes
Replied by carlobeirnes on topic New Jupiter Time-lapse, GRS and Io transit captured.
HI John and Albert,

Here is a rundown on WinJupos Colourcam.

1. Open WJ click Program / Jupiter / Recording / Image measurement.

2. Click OPEN IMAGE select your first sharpened Image MAKE SURE TIME AND DATE IS CORRECT TOP LEFT Make sure the image is the right orientation I,e, not flipped left to right when you load it in Jupos, or it will be a cock up.

3. Click the Adj tab then f11 (check the wire frame is the correct way up to match the image, if not, press key back space arrow and it will reverse the poles, re press f11. Even the moons and shadows in shot will be wire framed, thus proving you have done this correctly

4 Click IMAGE tab and click save, now create a folder eg jupos files and file it where you want the images to go .

5. Do the same for the rest if the images that are to be stacked and derotated .

6. Now click TOOLS and Derotation of Images. ADD all the images in one hit ( it does look like you can add only 3 but you can add more), change the pixel size box to the image size you are using ie 800, (say 300 for your colour camera) make sure the destination folder is correct where you want it to go and click COMPILE and wait for the image to appear immediate save it as a tiff in the folder of choice.

In the later versions of Photoshop you can re-sharpen ( INDIVIDUAL CHANNELS) whilst 16bit tiff but you have to change it to image MODE 8bit for most other adjustments.

I sharpen individual channels, there is no point in over-sharpening blue to create a load of noise.

Clear Skies,

Carl

Carl O’Beirnes,
Scopes and Space Ltd,
Unit A8 Airside Enterprise Centre,
Swords, Co Dublin,
Ireland.
www.scopesandspace.ie/
www.facebook.com/scopesandspace
twitter.com/ScopesandSpace
www.youtube.com/user/ScopesandSpace
Last edit: 10 years 10 months ago by carlobeirnes.

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10 years 10 months ago #99902 by albertw

carlobeirnes wrote: 2. Click OPEN IMAGE select your first sharpened Image MAKE SURE TIME AND DATE IS CORRECT TOP LEFT


We talked about this the other day but it's also important to make sure your computer time is correct and you have an accurate timestamp for the avi file.

Don't trust windows internet time sync to automatically run to do this. Run it yourself before imagining and then go to www.time.is to check it.

Some software will handle adding the timestamp into the file in a way that Winjupos understands. Firecapture is one. Not sure about others. Firecapture also saves a text file with all sorts of useful info.

You don't need high precision timing for jupiter, but if your filetime is to the nearest minute, and your clock is a a bit out you can easily find a moon in the wrong place. They move surprisingly far in a minute or two!

Albert White MSc FRAS
Chairperson, International Dark Sky Association - Irish Section
www.darksky.ie/

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